What makes the Jean baré ranges stand out even more from its competitors, is the certain actives used with its respective permutations, are exclusive to the Jean baré brand. These are the following:
Terminology & Research
Healing
Terminology & Research
Mucor Racemosus
Mucor racemosus is a filamentous fungus found in soil, plants, decaying fruits and vegetables. It is used in various different medical scenarios where it helps to resolve chronic and acute blood illnesses that are caused by complex morphological structures. For example it is used to treat pathological disruptions in the arterial and venous system of the body, as well as any circulatory disturbances. The addition of Mucor racemosus to the Jean baré ARMAMENT range, thus ensures increased blood flow to the upper layers of the skin, enhancing the supply of oxygen to the dermis where often healing and cell regeneration are needed.
Saccharomyces Lysate Extract
Mucor racemosus is further combined with another augmented cellular oxygen enhancer ingredient, Saccharomyces lysate extract. The compound effect of these two actives is improved absorption, addition of valuable nutrients, decreased irritation and absolute optimized cellular oxygen supply & consumption. A compound effect unique to Jean baré ARMAMENT.
2-β-D-glucopyranosyl-1,3,6,7-tetrahydroxy-9H-xanthen-9-one
Mangiferin, is bioactive compound that is isolated from mango fruit and its byproducts.This medical supplement possesses several properties of which immunomodulatory, antioxidant, antiallergic and antimicrobial is of the most prominent. Mangiferin is added to the Jean baré ARMAMENT range specifically for its antioxidant, antiallergic and antimicrobial attributes. It contributes to leaving the skin relaxed, calm and protected.
Aspergillus Niger Extract
Aspergillus niger extract is an immunobiological medicine which is extracted from a fungal source. It is known for its ability to discard decomposition products & toxic matter. This prime ingredient is added to the Jean baré pigmentation serum to eliminate the degradational products of pigmentation elimination.
Silver Ions
Silver ions is known for its antibacterial & antifungal, and therefore disinfecting effect. Silver ions adsorb to most biomolecules in order to inactivate them totally. The silver ions disintegrate the cell membranes of unwanted organisms, and the result of this is total disintegration of the organism (see Figure 1). Research has also shown that silver ions trigger the regrowth of tissue and has played various important roles in wound healing. Most products of the Jean baré ARMAMENT range are composed via the use of silver ions infused in water. Thus the aim of the whole range is to provide a antibacterial playground for all active ingredients to follow.
Figure 1: Disintegration of the cell membrane of unwanted organisms via silver ions
(Marshall, P. 2019. Differences between colloidal silver and ionic silver solutions. Pure Colloids).
Growth Factor
Growth factor refers to a group of proteins responsible for the stimulation of tissue growth. It is a group of peptide-hormone like substances. Cell division and cellular growth is triggered via growth factors. Growth factors, unlike hormones which is limited to glandular tissue, can be produced via various types of tissue. Growth factors are added to some of the products of the Jean baré ARMAMENT range specifically to target cell regeneration and growth.
3,7,8-trihydroxy-3-methyl-10-oxo-1,4-dihydropyrano[4,3-b]chromene-9-carboxylic acid
Fulvic acid is a by-product of microbial organic degradation, also known as humic substances. Fulvic acid has a very small molecular weight, is hydrophilic and a carboxylic-containing molecule. Various different research studies on fulvic acid have proven that it act as an anti-inflammatory seeing that it reduces the release of proinflammatory mediators from cells. This is of utmost importance for disorders that stem from overactive immune cells (like some allergies, eczema, inflammatory skin conditions etc). Jean baré ARMAMENT range has added to its armour the coal-derived form of fulvic acid – oxyfulvic acid – to address any possible inflammatory skin conditions.
Citric Acid
Citric acid is an Alpha hydroxy acid, derived from mainly citrus fruit. It is known for its role as a cellular metabolism enhancer when it forms part of a skincare routine. Citric acid assist in cell turnover seeing that it removes dead cells on the skin surface. This action unclogs pores and is responsible for new cell growth and a better and more even skin tone and texture. Citric acid is one of the more tolerable AHA’s and therefore sometimes easier for most skin types to accommodate. It makes sense why citric acid is part of the amour of various products of the Jean baré ARMAMENT range.
Terminology of other applicable ingredients, skin concepts and research done on various ingredients, conditions and skin solutions.
Free radicals & Antioxidants
Free radicals are formed when two atoms split and one atom is left with an odd, unpaired electron making it very unstable. Free radicals will attack the nearest stable molecule to steal its electron; in such an attack the molecule will lose one of its own electrons to become a free radical itself. This creates a chain reaction. Once this process is started, it can cascade, finally resulting in the disruption of a living cell.
The formation of free radicals arise normally in the body during metabolism, and the immune system also creates free radicals to attack viruses and bacteria. Other factors that create free radicals are environmental causes such as pollution, radiation and cigarette smoke. The body can handle these natural free radicals if there is enough antioxidants in the diet. When free radical production becomes excessive, things get out of hand and damage can occur. Of particular importance is that free radical damage accumulates with age.
FIGURE 2: ILLUSTRATION OF THE MISSING ELECTRON OF A FREE RADICAL
[McCann, J. 2020. Free Radicals, Antioxidants and Disease. Health June (14)].
Antioxidants neutralize free radicals by donating one of their own electrons, ending the electron-“stealing” reaction of a free radical. The antioxidants themselves don’t become free radicals by donating an electron because they are (luckily) stable in either form. They act thus as scavengers, helping to prevent cell and tissue damage that could lead to cellular damage and disease. One of the most prominent antioxidants in skin care is probably ascorbic acid, of which Jean baré ARMAMENT contains in many of their products.
Barrier function of the epidermis
The so called barrier function of the epidermis, or rather the stratum corneum of the epidermis, consist of 2 main role players: the acid mantle and a lipid layer. The acid mantle is a very fine, acidic layer on the very outer part of the stratum corneum. It is composed out of amino acids, fatty acids, secreted sebum and lactate (from sweat). This thin film acts as a barrier to potential contaminants (like bacteria) and also prevents TEWL. It has a pH value of 4-6. An impaired acid mantle (where the pH is too alkaline), can transpire as the following: flakiness, peeling, dryness, redness, dehydration, tightness & sensitivity. Maintaining the correct pH of the acid mantle is thus of absolute importance for healthy and hydrated skin!
The other role player of this critical barrier, the lipid barrier, is the extracellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum. This layer is composed of cholesterol, ceramides and free fatty acids and the most important role of this layer is that it acts as a hydrophobic barrier. It thus regulates the movement of water and electrolytes from the skin’s surface. A disruption in this barrier function of the skin, will result in a rapid increase in epidermal cholesterol and fatty acid synthesis. Schematic composition of these layers, in relation to the epidermis, in Figure 3 (Kuo, S, Shen, CJ, Shen, CF & Cheng, C, 2020 – adapted) and also in Figure 4.
FIGURE 3: SCHEMATIC COMPOSITION OF THE LAYERS OF THE EPIDERMIS
FIGURE 4: ILLUSTRATION OF SKIN PH & THE EPIDERMIS
(What is natural, healthy skin pH? [WWW document – 5/2/2022]. URL https://www.ceradan.com/advanced/skin-ph-acid-mantle/)
pH value of the skin, is in actual fact a very important diagnostic tool regarding the physiological state and structure of the skin. If any disruptions occur in any of the two skin barrier layers, the risk for specific skin diseases increases. The importance of the correct skin pH has recently been emphasized in controlled trials of eczema, acne, seborrheic dermatitis (dandruff), diaper dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, incontinence-associated dermatitis, aged skin, ichthyosis and candidiasis, where the benefits of targeted skin acidification and thus topical preparations which have a reduced pH, was shown to be of utmost importance.
In the management and treatment of diseases such as acne, intertrigo, contact dermatitis etc, it is of extreme importance to not compromise the acidic pH of the skin. Therefore part of the treatment regimen of these conditions is skincare products that has a pH of between 4.5 – 6.5. For this reason, ALL products of the Jean baré ARMAMENT range have a pH of between 4.7-6.
Compounding & compound action
Often regarded as the process of combining, mixing, or altering ingredients to create a product (medication) that is tailored to the desired needs. Compound action is referred to when the reaction of one active ingredient causes additional ingredients to inhibit or be enhanced due to the synergistic action of the two (or more) constituents.
Emollient
Emollients are moisturisers that soften the skin, keep it hydrated, supple & smooth. It makes the skin feel more comfortable, and it eases itchiness and treat conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and ichthyosis. Examples of emollients are fatty acids, butters (like shea butter), oils (avocado oil, coconut oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil) and lipids.
Humectants
Humectants have the ability to attract and transport moisture from the environment and from the lower layers of skin (dermis) to increase the amount of moisture (water) in the surface layers of skin. It thus keeps the skin hydrated and prevent dryness or scaling of the epidermis. Examples of humectants are: sodium hyalluronate, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, lactic acid, certain peptides & amino acids, aloe vera & honey.
Enzyme inhibitors
An enzyme inhibitor is a molecule that binds to an enzyme in order to reduce or inhibit the reaction of the enzyme. The normal manner in which the enzyme would have operated is now disrupted. Jean baré ARMAMENT contains various inhibitors to slow down the aging process of collagen and elastin degradation, and also inhibitors for the formation of melanin.
NMF (Natural Moisturising Factor)
The outer layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, contains a selection of water-soluble compounds that is responsible for keeping the skin hydrated. Various enzymes also get to work in this layer, of which the main function is the breakdown of dead skin cells in order to reveal healthy skin below. These enzymes can however just function in a hydrated surrounding. The role of the NMF is thus to maintain skin’s pliability, provide a favourable surrounding for hydraulic enzymes to facilitate the process of desquamation and to contribute to the skin barrier function.
The NMF are composed out of amino acids, inorganic salts (such as sodium, potassium, chlorides, phosphates, calcium & magnesium), sugars, urea and lactic acid. These components are all highly effective humectants seeing that they combine to attract water from the atmosphere, and thus hydrate the skin accordingly.
Occlusives
Occlusives are moisturisers that form a protective layer on the surface of the skin, mimicking the skin’s natural lipid barrier. This barrier prevents trans epidermal water loss via evaporation and protects the skin from external irritants. Examples of occlusives are: mineral oil, silicone oil, petroleum jelly, olive oil, beeswax & lanolin.
Peptides
Peptides are made out of short chains of amino acids, which in turn, if longer, makes up proteins. Proteins again, are what collagen, elastin and keratin are made up of. And these as we know, are the building blocks of the skin and responsible for texture & resilience. Without peptides the skin loses its elasticity, bounce and starts sagging. Texture of the skin also lacks elasticity as more and more wrinkles will appear. When peptides are applied topically though, it will act as messengers to skin cells, signaling them to again start performing certain functions as the formation of new collagen and elastin. Peptides thus has an anti-aging ability when added to skincare routines.
TEWL
Trans epidermal water loss refers to the amount of water that evaporates from the epidermis, excluding the water that leaves the skin via sweating. The average human TEWL per day is about 300-400ml (depending on the water vapor pressure gradient). If the TEWL is too high, it is an indication of an impaired barrier function of the epidermis.
Skin homeostasis
For the skin to constantly renew itself, and to maintain all functions to stay in equilibrium, it needs blood flow, moisture and lipids. Lipids in the stratum corneum plays a tremendous, big role in the health and integrity of the skin. These lipids form a barrier that prevents TEWL and also protects the skin from the invasion of unwanted microbes. Healthy skin also needs micro vessels and sufficient blood flow. Jean baré ARMAMENT assist the skin in all of the above to ensure skin homeostasis and equilibrium. Various moisturisers (like avocado oil & evening primrose oil) have been added to all products, which contains fatty acids of integral importance like linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid and linolenic acid. And to finalise, as mentioned previously, all ARMAMENT products are enhanced with Mucor racemosus that ensures sufficient and effective blood flow to capillaries of the skin.
FIGURE 5: MAGNIFICATION OF STRATUM CORNEUM CELLS
Barton, S & Gabriel, N. 2019. What is the stratum corneum and its importance in skin care.
